Apprvl NYC specializes in chainstitch embroidery and handmade goods. Based in Brooklyn, Apprvl offers both on site custom embroidery events and production embroidery.
Apprvl NYC specializes in chainstitch embroidery and handmade goods. Based in Brooklyn, Apprvl offers both on site custom embroidery events and production embroidery.
Natural dyes, derrived from plants, insects, earth and even a very specific shellfish, are estimated to have been around since 3000 BC, in China, India and Egypt. Techniques and plants have bounced the world, improving upon eachother through different cultures, creating beautiful colors in textiles, clothes, and more!
The first synthetic dye was accidentally discovered in 1856, a coal tar substance was able to create a lavendar dye, which started the decline of natural dyes in manufacturing. What some of us see as the beauty of natural dyes, were the major points for dyers to turn to synthetic dyes, for example the inconsistencies of color based on region and soil, working with growing seasons, and the slow process of the actual fabric dying. Pieces dyed with plants are all one of a kind, and no dye bath will ever be the same!
Natural Dyes may fade or bleed unless the fabric is mordanted, or treated to fix the dye in the fibers.
**If you are using a new item that has never been washed before, give it a rinse with some gentle detergent or baking soda to remove any finishes**.
Mordanting with Alum
heat a pot of water with enough water for your fabrics to sit in, not squished together, you should be able to stir the fabrics around easily.
Let your pot sit on medium heat, not boiling for about an hour. Let the pieces sit in this mixture overnight to cool.
Vinegar
when using vinegar, you want to create a mordant bath of 1 part Vinegar, 4 parts water
Let your fabrics sit overnight, with this method you do not need to rinse out the vinegar water before dying
Alum
you may be able to find this at the grocery store in the spice isle, You can also find this at local craft stores
Depending on how much fabric you are dying, you can add in a whole cup of alum if you are doing multiple pieces (ie. 4 shirts). If you are doing a few dish towels you can use half a cup
1. Add dyestuff to jar, mixing some dyes can create combined colors!
2. Pour very hot water into jar and stir dye around. You can also close the jar and shake.
3. If desired, create tie-dye patterns with rubberbands. Add mordanted, wet fabric to the jar.
4. Let sit for a few hours or until desired richness is reached. If working with cutch you can microwave (without jar lid) to re-heat the jar. You can also leave it in the sun to generate more heat. It’s ok to leave fabric in the jar overnight but if you leave it for too long mold or mildew may form.
Origin: Native to Asia
Plant: Madder was an extremely important dye in the 18th century, after the dye was brought to the Americas, farmers were paid a high premium to grow this crop. It takes 3 years of growing the plant for the roots to reach their full potency.
Colors: pink and peach to deep red and burnt orange. Color can change slightly brown with high heat.
Origin: Native to India
Plant: Does not necessarily require a mordant, but sensitive to light and soap.
Great to use in combination with other dyes to create browns and olive greens
Colors: golden yellow
Origin: Native to Central America
Plant: Marigolds are used in Day of the dead ceremonies, as they are refered to in Mexico as “Flor de muertos”
They are also used as temple offerings in different cultures. Easy plant to dye with and grow!
Colors: vibrant yellows and oranges
Origin: Logwood is native to Central America, Mexico and parts of Northern South America.
Plant: The reddish heartwood of the trees is what is used for creating the dye stuff,
it is chipped up, soaked and slightly fermented or “matured before used.
Colors: deep purples to silvery greys and everything in between.
When fabric is mordanted with oak gallnut or Myrobalan and Iron first, it can create dark blackish purple.